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The Netflix movie Damsel (2024) is a costume drama. By this I mean costume plays a central role in the narrative, effectively coming alive, acquiring character and a story arc, and setting itself up as a plausible contender for the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor, as it does (for instance) in Guillermo del Toro’s neo-Victorian extravaganza Crimson Peak (2015), in which Mia Wasikowska spends much of the movie struggling to control the dense folds of quasi-sentient drapery that threaten to overwhelm her in collusion with the disintegrating mansion of the movie’s title. The centrality of costume to Damsel has been confirmed by the costume designer, Amanda Monk, and the film’s director, Juan Carlos Fresnadillo, who describes the protagonist’s wedding dress as a ‘Swiss Army Knife’ packed with instruments that prove key to her survival.[1] I’d like to consider the film as a reflection on the clothes and accessories that symbolize and physically restrict the actions of women, and how the movie enables its central character to subvert the language of fashion imposed on her by a hostile culture. That’s one way of looking at it, at least. The other way is just to acknowledge that this movie is a blast, and that anyone interested in clothes, good acting, pleasing artwork or the history of fantasy should watch it at once, regardless of the sometimes supercilious reviews.

The movie stars Millie Bobby Brown, who has already formed a close relationship with costume designers in her previous movie roles. Among the designers she has worked with is the Irish artist Consolata Boyle, whose credits include the fine fantasy movies Into the West (1992) and Mary Reilly (1996). Boyle designed the costumes for Enola Holmes (2020), in which Brown dons a widow’s veil as a casque of war, swaps clothes with several boys, and demonstrates the knife-repelling qualities of that notorious ‘symbol of repression’, a Victorian corset – something her friend the Viscount Tewkesbury learns from, saving himself at one point by concealing a bulletproof breastplate underneath his swanky clothes. Boyle also designed the costumes for Enola Holmes 2 (2022), which is dominated by the suffragette colours – purple, cream and green – and in which Brown dons a stylised version of a military tunic as if to confirm her maturation as a warrior for the rights of women and workers. Costumes in these two movies are not quite characters, as they are in Damsel, but they play an integral part in the development of the protagonist’s character, which is almost as good. In Damsel, by contrast, Brown’s wedding dress takes on a personality of its own, and undergoes a story arc whereby it effectively comes of age, emerging as a stripped-down, versatile, devoted sidekick for the film’s protagonist.
Let me explain!

Elodie, the movie’s protagonist – Millie Bobby Brown – begins by pointedly wearing the clothes she needs, as against the clothes she looks good in. Coming from an unnamed and chilly ‘far-off country’ (far off from where, one asks oneself), governed by an apparently working-class aristocrat, Lord Bayford (Ray Winstone), she must wear furs to keep herself warm, even when chopping wood. Her country is in dire financial straits, and we know how bad it is not only because Lord Bayford’s daughter has seemingly chopped down all the trees in the place for fuel (she is cutting up the last of them when we first meet her, surrounded by stumps) but because she encourages her little sister Floria (Brooke Carter) to give away her furs, and even her ‘drapes’ or curtains, to less prosperous neighbours.[2] Fortunately the sisters are robust young women who hardly miss their furs. When they sail south after an offer of marriage from a wealthy southern prince (Nick Robinson), the girls spend all their time in the prow of the ship without furs or drapes, prompting their not-so-wicked stepmother Lady Bayford (Angela Bassett) to hand over her own cloak to prevent them catching cold and getting snotty noses (‘first impressions are everything’, she assures them). When they reach the prince’s country, which is rich enough to have a name – Aurea, Latin for golden – they disembark from the ship wearing simple shades of earthy brown, while the party that greets them from the palace flourishes blood red banners, gently hinting at their intentions for the prospective bride. From the beginning, then, things are set up to indicate the importance of clothes and fabric to the unfolding story; though as yet there is little indication of just how central clothes will be to the events that follow.

Further hints at clothes’ importance follow Elodie’s arrival in Aurea. There is a liberal use of blood red in the clothing of the Aureans, especially the priestesses, with whom Queen Isabelle of Aurea (Robin Wright) has an unhealthily close relationship. The Aureans also delight in motifs involving thistles (which the Prince wears on his doublet), dragons, and sharp-looking spikes; indeed, the King and Queen wear crowns that are seemingly constructed from knives and swords, surely a health and safety nightmare, while Elodie is provided with a coronet for her marriage ceremony shaped like a pair of miniature metal dragons capable of severing the fingers of anyone who dares to touch them. Perhaps this fondness for spikes and edges derives from the spiky, edgy mountain that dominates the Aurean landscape, whose shape is reflected in the shape of the palace – a building made up of tall towers with pointy tops, accessible only by spiral staircases – and whose shadow smothers the palace at nightfall like a shroud. The dragon motif is present in the very elevated bedchamber with which Elodie is provided on her arrival, full of scaly columns with reptilian tails winding down them; and the Aurean fondness for red extends to the food provided by palace room service, which consists solely of red fruit such as grapes and pomegranates. Elodie helps herself to a dark red grape, which she would surely never have done if she had watched Pan’s Labyrinth. We do not see her tuck into the pomegranate, which may possibly mean she escapes the fate of Persephone – though she comes very close to it, as she spends most of the second half of the film in an underground labyrinth much like Hades. But we’re getting ahead ourselves; let’s return to the bedchamber.
From the elevated balcony of her room Elodie can see for miles across the Aurean lands, which lie so far beneath her that it made me feel quite giddy, though Elodie has a splendid head for heights. She can also look across to a balcony in the neighbouring tower, a little lower than her own. Here she sees another young woman, conspicuously dressed in sacrificial white, who smiles at her before disappearing behind a curtain, like a coffin disappearing into the furnace of a crematorium. Later Millie notices that the other balcony and the bedroom it serves appear to be empty, their emptiness signalled by the fact that the curtain is billowing wildly in a through-draft from the open bedroom door. Needless to say, this is not a good sign. Fabrics of various kinds provide this first palace sequence with many of its principal omens, foreshadowings and prophecies; fashion in film has rarely felt so vatic.

The Aurean royal family wear different outfits every day, meaning you can never quite get a grip on who they are and what they stand for. Their subjects are so well dressed that even the horses wear handsome suits (Elodie’s father, meanwhile, keeps faith with his furs despite the heat, perhaps because he doesn’t have anything else in his depleted wardrobe). The supreme expression of the Aurean clothing obsession is the wedding costume into which Elodie is more or less clamped by an army of servants on her wedding day. As her little sister Floria looks on, Elodie undergoes a ritual investment clearly modelled on the donning of full plate armour by a medieval knight. Fresnadillo tells us there are seventeen layers to her outfit; I didn’t count, but can well believe it. The base layer includes a blood red corset resembling a breastplate, to indicate that she has been metaphorically consumed by the Aurean royal family, and after several more layers have been added she is fitted with a second, golden corset like another breastplate, complete with an ornate bodice-dagger at the breastbone, which takes the place of a warrior’s sword. A boddice-dagger is intended to make its wearer stand up straight like a professional soldier, but no marks for guessing that this one might have additional uses later on. The gold outer layer of Elodie’s costume confirms the palace’s view of her as a transaction, a thing of value bought with Aurea’s plentiful gold. Elodie’s lower body is fitted with a farthingale – a cage of hoops designed to keep the heavy folds of her skirts from encumbering her legs, first worn by Spanish and Portuguese ladies in the fifteenth century. She is then fitted with two smaller cages of hoops to puff out the fabric on her upper arms, while her forearms are encased in jewelled sheaths very much like gauntlets. As a finishing touch the servants provide her with a pomander, a small metal cage containing a ball of scented wax; this looks distinctly like a military flail, of the kind held by one of the knights in the movie’s opening sequence. Having been armed in Aurean fashion, she smiles affectionately at Floria. The Aureans may think they have caged and disciplined her with this outfit for their own purposes, but as the admiring Floria tells her on another occasion, ‘You can do anything’ – and that smile shows it. The same thing applies to the dragon, whose image the Aureans have embraced and whose spikes adorn their palace and their crowns; they think they have tamed it, but the dragon knows better, and enjoys that knowledge quite a lot. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves again. Let’s get back to the palace.

Speaking of armour – supposedly the ultimate in protective clothing – we should think about what this does in the film. One thing’s for sure: it does nothing at all to keep you safe. The opening scene shows a party of knights galloping on horseback towards the spiky mountain, bellowing to each other about their intention to rid the land of the dragon that lives there. One or two have crossbows, but these are patently inadequate for piercing a dragon’s scales; the knights clearly don’t have the benefit of having read The Hobbit, which recommends longbows for the purpose (though using a child as a substitute longbow, as in Peter Jackson’s third Hobbit movie The Battle of the Five Armies [2014], is not recommended). The rest have swords, which anyone could tell them will be wholly useless against a flying reptile. One knight has an equally useless mace or flail. The men’s armour, meanwhile, is made of plate metal, but its conductivity proves less of a problem to them than the fact that it seems to burn as if made from untreated cotton.[3] The dragon, of course, wipes out all the knights with its fiery breath, and the final shot of the opening sequence shows it advancing on their leader, the Aurean King, with menacing slowness. At this point the King seems finally to realise that his sword and armour are fashion items, not proper tools; he tosses the sword aside and falls to his knees, one presumes to be burned alive like his unfortunate followers. The whole sequence stresses the gap between expensive accoutrements and functionality. At the beginning the knights look wonderful, arranging themselves in arrowhead formation as they ride; during the battle they look well trained, as the King barks orders and the men respond with prompt efficiency; at the end they merely look scorched. Looking the part is not enough, then, and may even be fatal for those addicted to it. Elodie’s father, Lord Bayford, please take note: a tough outer shell is no substitute for a brain with many convolutions, like a maze. Don’t wear armour; it will only ever let you down. But more on this later – back to the palace for a final time.
Elodie should take note of these things too, of course, but she doesn’t have the benefit of having seen that opening sequence. So she can’t be expected to guess that the armour-dress with which she has been fitted mimics the inadequate garb of that band of ill-fated warriors. After the wedding ceremony she is swathed in a blood-red cloak, bundled aboard a golden carriage, and driven towards the mountain; her approach to the dragon’s dominion, dressed in symbolic armour, is clearly intended to echo the opening section of the film. The carriage’s destination is a cave among the rocks where Queen Isabelle of Aurea waits with the red-clad priestesses, arranged (like the knights) in arrowhead formation. The approach to the cave is strewn with petals like drops of blood, and the Queen’s red dress aligns her with the priestesses, just as the King’s armour aligned him with his knights. Everyone waiting at the cave, apart from the Queen, is wearing a mask – a mask of gold, concealing their expressions and affirming their link to the Kingdom of Aurea, with its economy of sacrifice, bloodshed, concealment, and of course gold, which serves as a symbol of all three. Sartorially speaking, I’d say that the signs couldn’t get much worse.

The Queen presides over Aurea’s economy, just as the dragon presides over the mountain. She knows the exact sum that must be disbursed for the realm’s prosperity, to be paid out in the currency of young women with a certain blood type – the blood type of the Aurean royal family. Far from dying in flames, the King of Aurea who sought to slay the dragon struck a hellish bargain with it: each generation he and his family will provide three daughters of the royal line as a sacrifice to the monster in the mountain, as compensation for the three dragon hatchlings he and his warriors stabbed to death in that expedition (something we only learn about much later). Queen Isabelle, however, protects her children with as much ferocity as the dragon; her design sense, both in clothing and in interior decoration, points up the parallel between them. In place of genuine princesses of the royal blood, she has taken to providing the beast with unrelated young women whose blood has been rendered royal through a double operation: first, marriage to Isabelle’s royal son, Prince Henry, and afterwards a crude blood transfusion, achieved by joining the hands of the royal couple, each of which has first been slashed across the palm with a sharp-edged blade, so that their bloods mix when they clasp. Blood, then, can be put on, so to speak, like the blood-coloured underclothes of the wedding outfit. Elodie even finds after the wedding ceremony that her blood has changed in appearance, having gold flecks in it as if infected by her gold-obsessed in-laws. The dragon can smell the presence of this royal blood on its female victims, like expensive scent, and is thereby convinced that Elodie and the rest are biological relatives of the Aurean royal family; so potent, one presumes, is the stink of royalty.
The beast is wrong, of course. Neither fancy clothes nor a fresh supply of blood can make the girls royal, and the Queen is intensely conscious of the fact, since she spurns the opportunity to get closer to her new relatives before the wedding. Elodie’s stepmother, in particular, seeks to make herself at home in the Aurean palace, admonishing the girls not to seem too impressed by its grand appearance for fear of exposing their own more modest background, donning a dark red gown in deference to Aurean ‘taste’, and approaching the Queen to compliment her on the elegance of the wedding preparations – the dressing, that is, of the palace for a grand occasion. The Queen, however, repudiates her efforts at rapprochement, telling her that the wedding is no more than a mercantile exchange born of necessity: ‘your family needs money; my family needs a bride. What we don’t need is more family’. Blood lies at the heart of her disdain. She tells Lady Bayford that she is aware her father was no better than a ropemaker (‘the finest in the city’, Lady Bayford assures her), and that the palace must seem to her of an infinitely higher social level than she could ever have imagined scaling in her youth. ‘Here you are,’ Isabelle tells her sneeringly; ‘you’ve climbed so high’ – as one can, on a well-made rope – ‘but one mustn’t forget one’s station’. Aurea, with its mountains, is visibly higher than the rolling snow-covered hills of Lady Bayford’s country, and for all the window dressing involved the wedding is clearly meant to cement, not remove, the difference in elevation between them.

The notion of the wedding as a transaction is cemented by the symbolic gift Isabelle offers Elodie after the ceremony of joining hands and mingling bloods. At this point the Queen presents Elodie with a gold coin, stamped on one face with the image of three women, on the other with an image of the dragon. We later learn that the women represent the three daughters of the Aurean King who were offered as the first sacrifice to the dragon, in exchange for the King’s life and the kingdom’s safety; the same sacrifice of three women has been offered periodically ever after. Behind every coin, this practice implies, is a structure of violent oppression and exploitation, the bulk of which rests squarely on the shoulders of women. Coins are also lies, an elaborate dressing-up of the truth, since they are invested with a great deal more purchasing power than can possibly be justified by the weight of precious metal they contain. Coins may be presented as gifts, but they are always treacherously changing allegiance; they may look pretty, but are often used for ugly purposes. When Elodie’s father, then – Lord Bayford – accepted Aurean gold in exchange for his daughter’s hand in marriage (the hand that is later ritually incised by the Queen), he embraces a lie that does far more damage to her and the other women in his family than it does to him. He justifies the lie as a sacrifice on his own part – self-sacrifice, he tells his daughters, is ‘what we do’ as the ruling family – but in fact it is Elodie who is sacrificed, and he later learns that he cannot tolerate his own hypocrisy in saying one thing and doing another, and returns to the mountain in an abortive attempt to rescue his daughter. The lie embodied in gold is damaging at every level; no wonder Elodie dramatically returns the coin with which she has been ‘bought’ in the closing scenes of the movie.
The Queen, as a lover of gold, accepts lies as an appurtenance of her role, like the clothes she wears and the coins she dispenses. When she first meets Elodie she asks the young woman about her strengths, to which Elodie replies ‘I always tell the truth’. Isabelle at once identifies this as weakness; her own family would have died out long ago if it hadn’t been for their skill in dissembling. The gold masks worn by the Queen’s subjects show that they have taken her penchant for falsehoods very much to heart, the dazzling appearance of their disguises concealing the ugliness of the transaction with which they are proclaiming their complicity. Elodie, on the other hand, shares her stepmother’s predilection for rope, using it to climb out of the dragon’s den under the mountain, then to climb back in when she needs to rescue her younger sister. The Queen believes in lines of blood; Elodie believes in lines of cord, and her belief helps her to bond with her stepmother, the ropemaker’s daughter (pun intended). The Queen believes in the false symbolism of fancy clothes; Elodie believes in functional fabric, such as hemp, the substance traditionally used to fabricate cables. The Queen believes in the potency of lies, Elodie cleaves to the trustworthiness of a well-made artifact.

As well as an appreciation for rope, Lady Bayford also teaches Elodie that blood is not a key factor in constructing families. As Lord Bayford’s second wife, she is stepmother, not mother, to Bayford’s two daughters; but she behaves like a parent, as the King of the opening sequence and Bayford himself do not. Her willingness to sacrifice her cloak on the ship to keep her stepdaughters warm is the first sign of her commitment to good parenting. Later, when she begins to suspect that the Queen is hiding something – alerted by her unwillingness to widen the circle of her relatives – Lady Bayford tells the girls ‘a mother knows these things’, thereby affirming her deep-rooted desire to serve as the mother figure they have lost, that is, to widen her own family circle. She is also, like the girls’ birth mother, a woman of action. At one point Elodie tells the Prince that her mother taught her to ride, and later in the movie Lady Bayford rides a horse from the Aurean port to the mountain, despite being badly wounded, in an attempt to rescue Floria, who has been chosen as the third bride in this generation to be sacrificed to the dragon (after the nameless woman in white and Elodie herself). Elodie’s mother also taught her to fight, and Lady Bayford too is a fighter, as she showed in her struggle with the guards who took Floria from her, the struggle in which she sustained her injuries. Along with Elodie’s dead mother and the dragon, Lady Bayford forms one of a series of mothers in the film who will fight for their offspring against all odds. The Queen is another; but she differs from the rest in her willingness to sacrifice others instead of herself to save her children. Her role as mother is all show, whereas Lady Bayford combines a respect for outward show with a genuinely loving heart, which makes her content to put her body on the line (another rope metaphor) for the girls in her care. Elodie confirms her appreciation of her commitment by leaping on her stepmother’s horse and taking over her stepmother’s task of rescuing Floria. Later she acknowledges the older woman’s part in her triumph over Aurea by naming her ‘mother’ rather than ‘stepmother’ and offering her a role as equal co-ruler of her homeland. But by this time in the movie, Elodie has learned a great deal more about chosen families than Lady Bayford alone could have taught her.
Lady Bayford is a functional mother, not a showy one – as one might expect of a ropemaker’s daughter. She reinforces the movie’s celebration of functional fabric: the furs and cloaks that ward off colds, the ropes and canvas that drive ships across the seas. In the first part of the movie she briefly finds herself seduced by the attractions of gorgeous appearances – fine dresses, dazzling interior décor, colourful ornaments – but she soon sees through them to the troubling agenda they conceal, and hurries to warn Elodie that her wedding must not go ahead. The second part of the movie confirms the wisdom of her warnings; while functionality emerges as a guiding principle of well-run countries as well as of well-made clothing.
That’s the story we’ll trace in the second part of this blog post.

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As we’ve seen, the first part of the movie is filled with clothing that serves both to further and conceal the designs of the powerful people who provide it; clothing as lies, in other words, since it furthers a beautiful false narrative about women’s role in marriage and the achievement of happy endings through union with royalty.
The second part, by contrast, which begins immediately after the ceremony of joining hands in the cave at the mountain, sees clothing repurposed in several ways. First there is the savage dismantling of the myth that clothing has so far served to sustain, which is expressed by the dismantling of Elodie’s wedding dress. Then there is the recycling of the same clothing for entirely new functions, which change according to the changing needs of the wearer. Finally there is a series of encounters with creatures whose clothes form an integral part of their identity. The creatures in question are at first perceived as less than human, but gradually become recognised as fellow sufferers from the damaging myths that underpin the kingdom of Aurea. By the end of the movie Elodie embraces them as kin, along with her stepmother, just as she embraces the clothing she was given for her wedding as a vital toolkit in her survival of the deadly myth that wedding embodied. By the end she has also redesigned the narrative of clothing, so to speak, into a new and more wholesome pattern, in service of the narrative of adventure which she has long held close to her heart. Near the beginning she tells the Prince that she longs to travel; by the end she has command of her father’s ship, and although she is sailing home, the open sea that surrounds her offers infinite other possibilities, to be realised through the agency of functional fabric – the vessel’s canvas sail and the ropes that control it.

Elodie’s approach to design and redesigning sets itself against the Queen’s design for her kingdom, an opposition that can be summarized in the contrast between the damaging jagged edges preferred by Isabelle and the softer contours favoured by Elodie, which reproduce the soft internal contours of the human body. On a stroll with the Prince through the palace gardens – nominally intended to let the couple get to know each other ahead of the wedding – Elodie finds herself walking through a maze of hedges, of the kind one often finds in the grounds of great houses. As if motivated by the maze, Prince Henry takes out a letter Elodie sent him before her arrival, dictated by her stepmother but decorated by Elodie herself with suggestions from her sister. The letter, then, is a family effort, predictive of the extent to which Elodie’s adventures in the mountain will depend on cooperation rather than solitary heroism; and those adventures are also anticipated by the decoration she has drawn at the bottom of the letter: a human heart with a maze inside it, encouraging the Prince to trace a path through the complex pattern of Elodie’s inner life. Women, of course, are often associated with mazes; think of Ariadne, who showed Theseus the way to the heart of the Cretan labyrinth, which served only as a trap for the male minotaur inside, much as the Prince finds himself trapped in his mother’s labyrinthine schemes; or Sarah in Jim Henson’s Labyrinth (1986), another fantasy classic echoed in this movie along with The Princess Bride (1987), Dragonheart (1996), Beowulf (2007) and of course Stranger Things (2016 to the present), whose Upside Down is yet another labyrinth. Earlier in the movie, Elodie drew another maze to entertain her sister, as they lay together on a splendid palace bed; and later she finds herself trapped in the labyrinthine bowels of the mountain, where a map sketched on a cave wall helps her work out the pattern of the subterranean maze. Thanks to the map, by the end of the ordeal she has more or less made the maze her second home, capable of being used for self-defence just as her wedding dress is. In this movie, then, the labyrinth stands for a regard for inwardness as against the brilliant surfaces that obscure what lies within. It’s worth mentioning that the Prince’s story arc is a tragic one precisely because he fleetingly shows an interest in mazes, and hence in Elodie’s heart and mind, which he never follows up, thanks to his commitment to his murderous mother.

Navigating the maze beneath the mountain helps Elodie navigate the lies told by the Queen, as well as the motivation of the maze’s occupant, the dragon. In it she finds the bodies of the human victims of Aurea and of the dragon’s daughters, who are also victims, and whose murders set off the cycle of violence against women that has come to define the Kingdom of Aurea. The maze also implicitly suggests a deep-rooted link between Elodie, with her maze-like heart, and the maze-dwelling monster to which she has been sacrificed. As we’ve seen, the Queen has a link to the dragon in her passion for protecting her children; but where Queen Isabelle takes the symbolism of her kingdom from the dragon’s razor-sharp teeth, its jagged armour and its mace-like tail – its outward attributes – Elodie’s choice of the dragon’s maze as her symbol gives her the opportunity to trace its inward arteries and cortical convolutions – its thoughts and emotions. The film, then, describes a dramatic shift from the superficies or surfaces of things to their depths, from the daylight glare of public life to the darkness of private cogitations, fears and sorrows, and ends by bringing these different elements together, where the Queen and her associates have been concerned to keep them apart, in permanent conflict with one another, through the falsehoods they promulgate. In the process, Fresnadillo’s narrative maps out a new myth to replace the toxicity of the old ones, confirming its status as a classic of modern fantasy.
The dismantling or dismissal of the concept of clothes as a means of measuring and controlling their wearers begins at the film’s turning point, a third of the way through the action. This is the point at which Prince Henry, all ceremonies over, hurls his new bride from a rope-fringed bridge into the abyss that serves as entrance to the dragon’s territory. As she falls, Elodie’s wedding dress is torn and her crown falls off, symbolically divesting her of the power she supposedly derives from her link with Aurea; she completes the process herself by ripping off the cage-like necklace, made of gold and blood-red rubies, with which she was invested by the palace servants. Looking at the rocks around her she notices that they are covered by similar accessories: a shoe, a necklace, a crown; and she sees at once that these belong to other women: ‘That’s not mine,’ she says, and it’s not clear which item she means; maybe all of them. Abruptly, the accessories teach her what she is: an expensive, showy item, intended to be used just once, then cast aside. They also explain the meaning of Queen Isabelle’s words at the blood-mixing ceremony, which Isabelle described as the moment when Elodie joined the ‘long line of women who have helped to build this kingdom’. The Queen was not referring to a bloodline in the conventional sense, but to the line of sacrificial victims hurled over the bridge’s edge to satisfy the dragon’s thirst for vengeance with their blood; victims embodied in the discarded ornaments and clothes they have left behind. Later she finds a number of discarded dresses in the innermost cave of the dragon’s labyrinth. In a fever dream brought on by her injuries she sees the dresses filled with the ghosts of their former wearers, some cowering, some praying, some aimlessly picking at their wounds, some driven insane by their afflictions. The sacrificial clothes of these women mark them out as Elodie’s family, members of the line of female victims invoked by the Queen. Their continuing attachment to these unmodified garments also marks them as trapped, unable to free themselves even in death from their constricting outfits and the roles they symbolize.

Later still, these ghostly women are joined by another trio of female victims: three dead baby dragons Elodie finds while exploring the maze. The babies are linked to the brides by the gold and jewels that surround them, dismantled fragments of bridal garb which have clearly been collected by the dragon from the corpses of her victims and strewn across the children’s remains as sacrificial offerings to the dead. The largest item in the pile is the King of Aurea’s crown, which we glimpse in another flashback, this time to the moment when the King commanded his knights to kill the newly-hatched dragonets; at this point there were no jewels near the dragonets’ eggs, which shows that they must have been collected later. The flashback fleshes out something that was said by Victoria’s ghost in Elodie’s vision – ‘it’s a lie’. A voiceover explains what the spectre meant: the Queen once claimed that the dragon under the mountain was the ‘last of its kind’, but the corpses show it did in fact have offspring, and the fact that there were three of them explains why the dragon demands three human princesses of the Aurean royal blood in each generation. The dragonets, then, form part of the ‘long line’ of female victims, and by placing the other victims’ accessories around them the dragon has effectively made them kin with those unfortunate human women, forever bound together by the cycle of misogynist violence set in motion by the King that day. The jewels imply, too, that their mother is as much trapped by the demands of ritual as her human enemies. Only an end of the cycle can free the dragon and any future human brides.

So much for the dismantling of Elodie’s wedding outfit, part of the general dismemberment of ceremonial robes and jewels which has marked the ‘long line’ of female victims who came before her. The repurposing of clothes and accessories happens rapidly once Elodie enters the mountain, spurred on, it seems, by one of the ghosts she sees in her fever dream. This woman, aptly named Victoria (played by Nicole Joseph), differs from her fellow victims in her activism, which is directed as much to supporting her successors as to helping herself. Not content to submit to her fate as passive victim, Victoria chooses instead to leave a number of material traces of her presence in the dragon’s caves: first a message on the wall, marked with her initial, V, to let future brides know that the innermost cave lies safely beyond the dragon’s reach; then the map that shows the shape of the mountain labyrinth; and later the crown Elodie uses to scale a funnel of dagger-sharp crystals to reach a gap in the side of the mountain, hooking its golden hoop around each crystal to prevent her fingers being cut to pieces.[4] Victoria, then, blazes a trail for Elodie, first identifying a literal trail for her – a path through the maze – and secondly by showing how the ornaments of female victimhood can be repurposed, as the crown is repurposed into a tool for climbing. She did not survive her own ordeal – Elodie finds her burned-out corpse at the top of the funnel, with a final message signed with a V: ‘not safe’. But Elodie clearly sees herself as Victoria’s blood relative (in the sense that they have both had their blood shed by the royal house of Aurea), perhaps even her reincarnation, since she uses Victoria’s accessories, written messages and vocal urgings to retrace her footsteps and complete her unfinished mission of escape and revenge, the victory over Aurea which the name ‘Victoria’ predicts.
But by the time she encounters Victoria’s ghost in her fever dream, Elodie has already begun the process of divesting herself of some of her apparel and repurposing the rest. When first attacked by the dragon she flees into a narrow passage, but finds her progress hampered by her farthingale, the cage of hoops around her waist. While struggling to free herself from the cage she is burned on one leg by the dragon’s blazing breath, discovering in the process how dangerous it is to wear constricting garments (as dangerous as for superheroes to wear capes, something we learned from The Invincibles). Afterwards Elodie sharpens her bodice dagger on a rock and uses it to cut away strips of her skirt to serve as bandages; the dagger also comes in useful as an improvised ice-axe when she leaps across a gorge, and later still as a weapon in her fight with the dragon. The pomander – that is, the small metal cage attached to her girdle, containing a ball of scented wax – becomes a temporary lantern when she lights the wax using a leftover patch of dragon-fire. One of the slightly larger cages that puff out her shoulder-pieces is recycled as a more efficient lantern when she fills it with glow-worms. Her deployment of Victoria’s crown as a climbing-loop completes the process of transforming elaborate Aurean fashions into the functional clothes and tools she was wearing at the start of the movie.

Not content with transforming her own clothes, Elodie also makes a statement out of the discarded pieces of armour she finds in the main part of the dragon’s cave. When she starts to collect the armour, viewers expect her, I think, to put it on; I know I did. That’s what a less intelligent heroine would have done, despite the obvious pointlessness of wearing armour to fight a monster that can both breathe fire and puncture breastplates with a tap of its talon, as we learn when it kills Lord Bayford (though like all epic heroes he gets some satisfying final words before the puncture-wound kills him).[5] But Elodie already has armour of her own – she is still wearing her breastplate-shaped inner corset – and has other plans for the leftover pieces. Just as their armour served to distract the knights who wore it from their comparative weakness in the face of a better-armoured monster, so Elodie uses the plates to distract the dragon, constructing a decoy from them, a kind of hollow puppet-knight held together with a cable made from her hair (and in making the cable of hair Elodie becomes a ropemaker, just like her stepmother’s father). The only knightly item she takes for her own use is a sword, which she deploys to give herself time to speak the words the dragon needs to hear – the ‘truth’ to counteract the lies both she and the dragon have been told (the word is more powerful than the sword in this movie, for good and for evil). When the dragon returns from checking out the decoy ‘knight’ at the other end of the cave, she finds Elodie waiting for her, blade in hand; and the conversation that ensues between them is accompanied throughout by this symbol of Aurean dishonesty and dishonour, which Elodie uses to defend herself while she speaks. This is a brilliant visual satire on the patriarchal tradition of heroism as embodied in multiple fights between male warriors and dragons, from Sigurd and Fafnir to Saint Michael and Satan, Beowulf and the nameless dragon in the poem, and the many iterations of Saint George and the Dragon. The men in these stories have invariably been presented as the protagonists of their narratives, their swords as legendary blades, their armour as a symbol of their faith and integrity. Elodie’s conversation with her dragon, by contrast, which is mediated at first by the sword, ends with the sword being cast aside, as the pair transform themselves through dialogue from their traditional roles as damsel/victim and aggressor to fellow victims and co-avengers of this violent tradition or ‘line’ of male heroism.

As we’ve seen, the Aurean lies told about the dragon include the Queen’s claim that the knights attacked the beast because it burned villages, while the lies about Elodie include the mingling of her blood with that of the Aurean royal family, giving the illusion that she is of their lineage. Both females have been wounded by these falsehoods. It’s appropriate, then, that the talk between them ends with both being wounded, multiple times, by the weapons that feature in patriarchal knight-and-dragon narratives: fire and the sword. At the end of the first part of their talk, the dragon breathes flames at Elodie and Elodie stabs it in the mouth with her borrowed blade. Afterwards Elodie’s side is punctured by the monster’s talon in an echo of the piercing of her father’s breastplate, and she responds by stabbing it with her repurposed boddice dagger, in the eye and arm. In the course of the dialogue Elodie drops the sword twice, picking it up once to stab the dragon in the neck and tell her she is ‘not one of them’ (that is, the Aurean royal family), and again after she has tricked the dragon into scorching itself with its own flames. But the sword cannot in the end be repurposed or deployed as a tool for justice; it has been too widely used as a tool of oppression, as Elodie realizes when she makes ready to despatch the dragon using exactly the same sword hold as the knights used to despatch its new-hatched offspring (she raises the sword in both hands, holding it upside down, in preparation for a savage downward thrust). So instead of delivering the death blow to the fire-damaged monster, Elodie stabs the blade into the stone of the cave floor – where it stands upright like a cross on a previously unmarked grave – and turns to her found family to heal the breach between herself and her draconian alter ego. The time for repurposing is past, to be replaced by unification, healing, and properly directed revenge. Which brings us to the third and final form of clothing Elodie finds in the cave: creatures whose outer coverings form an integral part of their being.

There are three such creatures in the film, echoing the other sets of three we’ve noted in the movie: three dragonets, three sacrificed royal daughters, three innocent female victims in each generation, three birth mothers (Elodie’s mother, the dragon and the Queen, with Lady Bayford later embracing the role of Elodie’s mother).[6] The first is a flock of birds, which Elodie encounters when she first enters the maze of caves. To begin with she sees just one bird, like an animated, fluttering fragment of fire; it has been torched by the dragon, and Elodie seeks to extinguish the flames, only to find herself surrounded by hundreds of birds, all on fire like the first one – far too many to tend to. Gradually we become aware that the birds reflect Elodie’s own position: at first she thinks herself alone in her predicament as a betrayed bride, but soon understands she is just one of a long line, a flock of fellow sufferers who deserve to be rescued or avenged as much as she does. The echo is driven home by the dragon, who keeps calling Elodie ‘little bird’ as it hunts her through the maze, just as it hunted its other victims, human and avian. Like the birds, Elodie and her fellow brides are disadvantaged by their coverings; feathers are both beautiful and flammable, and so are the bridal clothes with which the women have been decorated. The natural avian condition is one of free flight in all directions, something that was driven home by the many birds Elodie saw when she emerged from her palace bedchamber onto the balcony high above the Aurean landscape. Birds are visible again at the end of the movie, flying freely around the palace just before Elodie returns to seek vengeance on the queen and her allies. Elodie’s desired natural condition is to be a traveller, free to journey wherever her heart takes her, borne across the sea on canvas wings. This is the condition in which she finds herself at the end of the movie, when the captain of the ship on which she has embarked asks her, ‘My lady, what course shall we steer?’, acknowledging her as the will that guides the sails or wings he manages. Her answer at the time is ‘home’, but the expanse of sea surrounding her suggests that like a bird she has other options.

Elodie, then, identifies with the feather-enrobed birds as soon as she meets them. This is not so with the second or third of the creatures she meets in the cave. The second is of course the dragon (played by Shohreh Aghdashloo), who follows the flock of birds and announces Elodie as her prey soon afterwards. Like the knights, the dragon is encased in plate armour, but for her this is not symbolic, it’s part of her body, a necessary protection against the men who seek to destroy her; the men’s armour is no more than a pointless imitation of hers. Their penchant for gold, too, comes across as a mimicry of the gold that is a natural part of the dragon’s being: she spouts golden fire, which lights up her scaly throat as the heat builds up inside her, while her babies hatch from their eggs in a welter of golden yolk. Dragons have long been associated with gold – Tolkien’s Smaug being the most celebrated modern example – but this dragon has no interest in that expensive mineral except as a symbol of her vengeance on the killers of her young. Like the birds, then, the monster in this movie is a winged victim, trapped by unnatural restraints as symbolized by the underground darkness in which she dwells. The monster is naturally armoured, naturally golden, naturally a thing of air as well as of stone caves and corridors; but her natural environment was stolen from her when armour and gold were requisitioned by human beings, envious of the dragon’s power and beauty. Even her mountain was stolen from her, made part of the Aurean demesnes by royal decree. Her material ‘garments’ – from scales to caves to the slopes of her mountain home – are an integral part of her person, and have been purloined from her by thieves, who weave them about their own bodies in fashion designs that symbolically declare their appropriation of the dragon’s territory.

The third kind of creature Elodie meets in the mountain maze is a kind of glow-worm: a mollusc something like a slug, with incipient legs and a set of crown-like feelers sprouting from its head, which she first encounters in a cave where it has formed great candelabras of bluish-white light with the slime which is its medium. The crown and the candelabras ally the slugs with the kind of natural royalty which the Aureans seek to imitate. Candelabras were much in evidence in the Aurean palace, as of course were crowns, but the slugs possess both things without the need to pay for them with gold. And they prove more functional than anything in the palace; first because they can be collected and stored in Elodie’s improvised lantern, constructed from her shoulder-cage, to light her way in the underground darkness; and secondly because they have the property of healing wounds, like the leeches used by medieval physicians.[7] Elodie discovers this property when she wakes from her fever dream to find the glow-worms feeding on her injuries, something that disgusts her at first before she realises that her wounds have begun to heal thanks to their ministrations. Her courteous words to them at this point – ‘I’m deeply sorry for underestimating you’ – suggest that she recognizes them as kin; she too has been underestimated by the Queen, though Isabelle is unlikely to confess as much (and indeed she doesn’t, when Elodie turns up at the palace safe and well after her underground travails). Elodie’s words to the glow-worms also set a precedent for talking to nonhuman creatures instead of hurting them, something she successfully puts into practice a second time when she addresses the dragon.
If Elodie’s talk with the dragon is mentally healing, the glow-worms complete the process by healing the dragon’s body. Abandoning the sword at the end of the conversation, Elodie turns to the slugs to heal the dragon’s wounds, some of them inflicted by Elodie, some by the dragon herself. The gesture brings all the creatures of the cave together; the dragon and the glow-worms, of course, but also the birds. Elodie, after all, was dubbed ‘little bird’ by the vengeful monster, and the monster burned itself just as it burned both the birds and the brides, so that the act of healing includes the birds by proxy. Like the letter Elodie wrote with her family, and which the Prince read in the first part of the movie as they wandered through the palace maze, this act of healing is a collective act, not an act of individual heroism. It mimics, then, the process of making clothes and other parts of a person’s outfit. Many specialist crafts are involved in such making, from spinning and weaving to dyeing, designing, cutting out and sewing together the component parts of a garment – to say nothing of the business of making fastenings, belts, pomanders, farthingales, crowns. In healing the dragon with words and glow-worms, then, Elodie is effectively redesigning the role of hero along more inclusive, communal lines.

This communal aspect of the redesigning process is reflected in her final act of revenge. As she stalks into the palace cloaked in the scars of battle and the dirt of the labyrinth – which she smeared on her skin before confronting the dragon, in deliberate contrast to the painstaking application of make-up before her wedding – Elodie looks to the Queen like a solitary rebel engaged in a desperate act of defiance against impossible odds. After all, she is wearing none of the recognised insignia of power, the signs that link her to the rich and authoritative. Her outfit, reduced to a corset and a ragged underskirt, no longer even has a colour, her subterranean journey having erased every trace of the red of Aurea. She has no accoutrements at all, not even a bodice dagger or a pomander. All this in opposition to the riot of red and gold which is the palace, decked out for another royal wedding, and the variations on the theme of gold in the resplendent costumes of bride, groom, priest and guests. From the perspective of the Aurean royal family, Elodie has no identity at all, like the peasants who work the fields beyond the palace grounds. Her inadequately clothed body defines her as a no-body.
Of course, the Aureans are wrong; but they are unable to read the signs of their wrongness. Even when Elodie insists on addressing everyone in the palace, giving them a chance to escape before their doom is unleashed, the Queen cannot perceive her as anything more than an upstart ‘commoner’, someone who must not be spoken to (‘Don’t you dare explain yourself to this… commoner’, she tells the Prince), far less feared. The Queen has a contempt for the art of dialogue that brought healing to Elodie and the dragon. The servants, on the other hand, hear Elodie’s words and take her advice by running away, closely followed by the new bride and her family. These are the people, after all, with whom Elodie shares the common cause which is implied by the term ‘commoner’ (and ‘commoning’ is an old word for communing or communicating through dialogue); they are her people, in effect her kin, since they all understand each other, having suffered the same injustices. The only people who do not listen are those personifications of elitism and entitlement, the royal family, along with their stupidest followers, the lords and ladies of the hereditary nobility. For them, people of common blood are no better than animals, which are by definition wordless; it’s the Queen who expresses this, of course, asking Elodie if she thinks the remaining Aureans should fear such an ‘insolent creature’ just because she has ‘somehow managed to escape the dragon’. Elodie’s answer, however, insists that she is not singular but plural: ‘It’s not me you should fear’; and her words are given substance by the dragon, who suddenly lands on the palace roof, breaking off some ornamental banisters as it does so. Elodie is not one creature after all, but kin to many. Her ‘insolent’ words are backed up by the dragon’s breath, restored to it by a number of similarly underestimated creatures, the healing glow-worms. Elodie knows what it is to be part of a ‘line of women’ – a collective of human and nonhuman female beings, extending from the palace servants to the birds in the cave to the crown-wearing slugs – as the Queen never will.

The dragon’s fiery breath has an interesting effect on both Queen and Prince. The Prince accepts his fate with resignation, closing his eyes and refusing to budge as the dragon sprays flames from the roof into the palace courtyard where he stands; he knows that his tragic arc is now complete, and that he thoroughly deserves this painful end. The Queen, on the other hand, is furious at being frazzled, shouting ‘no’ as the fire engulfs her.[8] But she burns nonetheless, and her outfit burns along with her: Fresnadillo chooses to show us her crown melting on her head long before her flesh begins to sizzle, as if to confirm that the end of the Queen is also the end of the various fashion lines she sponsored, and of the monarchy, too, whose permanence and stability those lines were intended to symbolize.

The end of monarchy is also implied by the movie’s final scenes. In them we see three women standing on the jetty not far from the fire-ravaged palace, ready to embark on the ship that will take them home. The women stand in a row, with Elodie in the middle, Floria on her right side and Lady Bayford on her left. Elodie is telling Lady Bayford that she trusts her to rule ‘our people’, and when Floria asks if she can help, Elodie tells her ‘I’m counting on it’ (Elodie’s way of counting is very different from the kind Queen Isabelle practised, which involved gold coins and illustrious ancestors). Elodie, then, will not rule alone; indeed, she may not rule at all in the end, since we know she’s always wanted to travel. Appointing co-rulers by fiat is hardly democratic, but it’s a way to destroy the hereditary model, and hence of creating a form of government-by-choice that might have a chance of becoming democratic. Elodie’s reference to ‘our people’ – a collective ‘we’ as opposed to a royal one – holds similar promise.
The three women are wearing dresses of different shades. Floria’s is green and white, Elodie’s blue and white, Lady Bayford’s a reddish gold, as if she has repurposed Aurea’s colour scheme for a new epoch. There is no uniform any longer; even the browns that defined the three women as from the same country at the beginning of the movie have been supplanted with a much more varied palette. Instead of placing some leader figure at the point of an arrow, as the King of Aurea placed himself in the opening sequence and the Queen placed herself alongside the priestesses at the blood-mixing ceremony, the women walk side by side, embracing each other as they affirm their mutual affection and trust. A new time is about to begin, their positioning declares. It will be as varied as the colours they wear, will be characterized by cooperation, and will warmly embrace all generations.

It will also kick serious ass. That’s something that becomes clear as the ship sets sail and the dragon flies into view alongside the vessel. Elodie’s inclusivity embraces her new friend, the monster, as well as her official relations; and the gold towards which they float or fly is not the gold of a dragon’s hoard, or the flamboyant gold of haute couture, but a glorious sunset. The future is natural, functional, and filled with beauty.
Perhaps I exaggerated when I said at the beginning that costume in Damsel might set itself up as a plausible contender for the award for Best Supporting Actor. Perhaps I have stretched the definition of costume a little beyond what is reasonable. But I hope I have made a case for the film’s intelligence, progressive politics, and wit. If Victoria had been the heroine it would have been more radical; but Elodie gives us a heroine to root for, thanks to the fine performance of Millie Bobby Brown; her redevelopment of her wedding outfit springs plenty of surprises; and there’s an ingenuity about the choices made throughout the narrative that makes the film well worth revisiting. I’m listing it among my favourites alongside The Princess Bride, Labyrinth, Enola Holmes and Stranger Things.

NOTES
[1] See Angel Shaw, ‘Seven Secret Details Damsel Incorporates in Elodie’s Wedding Dress’, Screen Rant, here.
[2] A charming aspect of many great fantasy movies is the playful comparison between British and American culture they encourage. This is particularly true in matters of dialect, as here, where actors with British accents use American terminology; but it can also extend itself to creatures (think of the American robin in Disney’s Mary Poppins), or landscapes (there’s a field of maize, a New World crop, in Peter Jackson’s The Fellowship of the Ring, set in an alternative world which is modelled on ancient Europe). Sometimes scripts get tangled up in their efforts to imitate formal British English. A wonderful example in Damsel is the castle steward’s assurance to Elodie that ‘supper has been carried hence’ – which means, more or less, that supper has been carried away and she will have to do without it. I don’t think that’s what the screenwriter meant, but anyone who moans about the mistake is a killjoy.
[3] The flammable properties of Aurean armour are hinted at in some of the furnishings of the royal palace. The coverlet on Millie’s bed, for instance, is decorated with a coat of arms showing a dragon and a helmet that seems to be bursting into flames.
[4] We know it’s Victoria’s crown because when Elodie finds it she exclaims, ‘you made it out’, clearly referring to her most resourceful predecessor. I mention this because some accounts of the movie suggest that it’s Elodie’s headwear.
[5] I’m calling Lord Bayford an epic hero because for a brief period in the movie he re-enacts Ray Winstone’s earlier role as Beowulf in Robert Zemeckis’s 2007 movie of that name – which also starred Robin Wright Penn as Hrothgar’s wife. Beowulf has a fling with Hrothgar’s wife in that film, much as Lord Bayford compromises himself by accepting Queen Isabelle’s gold in this one. Beowulf, in fact, is very nearly as ambiguous a hero in Zemeckis’s movie as Lord Bayford is in Fresnadillo’s.
[6] For further examples of threes in the move, watch the embedded video in John DeLillo’s ‘The Ending of Damsel, Explained: Who Lives Happily Ever After?’, in which Fresnadillo explains his thinking in detail. See Tudum.com, here.
[7] Indeed some kinds of leech, such as turtle leeches, have ‘finger-shaped gills’ that resemble these glow-worms’ incipient legs.
[8] Please note that I’m using this word in the British sense, to mean ‘fried’ or ‘burnt to a crisp’.


























































































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